The trailer for Paul Thomas Anderson’s new film, Phantom Thread, dropped yesterday and it has Daniel Day-Lewis fans the human race a little breathless. For one, the last time these two got busy they gave birth to There Will Be Blood. For another, Day-Lewis recently announced that this will be his last film. Team that hype with the beautiful and thrilling trailer itself, and you’ve got plenty of chatter about the movie helping Day-Lewis win his fourth Best Actor Oscar. While we’re at it, we’d like to put in a nomination for his hair and makeup team too. Day-Lewis’s character Reynolds Woodcock looks like he could do for gray hair what Daniel Plainview did for mustaches. That is, turn an old man grooming move into the stamp of a total badass.

We asked Vaughn Acord, men’s grooming god, founder of V76, and fellow silver fox himself, to explain the Golden Ratio that is this haircut. Acord calls this cut a “low Hollywood taper”, which means it’s a low taper cut with some lived-in texture. “The high taper cuts that have been popular recently have a lot of length or heavy overlay on top,” he explained for context, “but this cut sits low, so there is fullness and balance to the sides and back. The hair is meant to be swept back, as if it melts that way.”

If you’ve been meaning to part ways with your high-and-tight anyway, a lower fade is a solid segue out of the look. And if your hair is straight or wavy you may even want to wear it at crazy couturier-inspired length. Acord notes that a razor (versus sheers or a clipper), will allow your stylist to make sure the hair sits just right. As for the color, whatever you do, don’t fake the gray. “Not many stylists out there can achieve that look without it looking unnatural or contrived,” Acord cautions. In other words: You’ve either got it, or you don’t. Or you’re Zayn Malik..

The Phantom Thread trailer shows Woodcock combing his hair with two brushes at the same time but—hooray—that won’t be necessary for styling this cut in 2017. “A pliable wax or clay, like the V76 Texture Clay or Pomade will give hair a hold but won’t be restrictive" Acord notes. The stylist also advises to go lighter on product if your hair is very dark, “You don’t want the product to be visible and shiny. A little goes a long way.” So there you have it. In hair and acting, it’s all about restraint—and doing whatever Daniel Day Lewis does.

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