K-Beauty sounds like a new party drug, but it's actually the skincare philosophy—lifestyle, really—that took over the skin and beauty (and the more manly-leaning grooming) industries in 2017. Thanks to generations of skincare obsessives perfecting an obsessive routine (more on that in a minute), multiplied by scientific advancements, the once-niche trend is now a global phenomenon. And the most important thing to know about it is that it requires your dedication to a twice-daily 10-step face regimen.
Committing to that much time morning and_ night sounds excessive at first: overkill in the way Tom Brady's diet is overkill. It sounded ridiculous and gimmicky to me, too, but as GQ's grooming director, it's literally my job to know these things. That's how I found myself sitting down with the founders of Soko Glam, Dave Cho and his wife Charlotte. After meeting in Korea and observing a personal grooming culture light years ahead of our own, the Korean-American Iraq war vet (Dave) and licensed aesthetician (Charlotte) launched their distribution company to bring Korean skin health philosophies—and the products that achieve it—stateside.
"We call it the skin first philosophy," says Charlotte. "It's not really about a brand or a product. It's about the idea that you're going to take care of your skin before there is an actual situation or skin concern." This prevention-first philosophy is gospel in Korea, a tradition passed down through generations. It's in contrast to the American outlook, which is to find quick fixes once problems arise.
Korean skincare is like a choose your own adventure. There are ten categories that products fall into, which correspond to the ten steps. (All ten are listed at the bottom of this story.) "There's a rhyme and reason for every single step and it's done very methodically and systematically," says Charlotte says, "but you don't have to use every single step. They call it the 10-step skincare routine because these are the ten things you can basically do." In fact, you probably shouldn't do all ten steps every day. But that depends on the kind of skin you're working with.
Determining what skin type you have is essential to knowing what products to use. Most products (not just Korean ones, but especially Korean ones) have multiple versions specifically formulated for different skin types. Similarly, when you're actually using these products, you need to pay attention to how they affect your skin. If your skin feels thin or brittle, for instance, don't exfoliating as often. If you're breaking out, try a lighter or oil-free moisturizer. (Don't know what kind of skin you have? There's an easy quiz on Soko Glam's website.)
The Chos suggest first timers start simple and incorporate additional steps from there. The two most important steps to adopt right away are the double cleanse and moisturizer. Cleansing your face in an effective and regular way is guaranteed to bring you near instant results—and is the most important thing to your skin's health. "If your skin is not totally clean, you're not going to be able to absorb all the goodness you're going to try to put on after. At a molecular level, the dirt and debris is blocking that from being accepted into your skin," says Dave. "Even when I was in a hostile environment or on a patrol base when I was in the army, I couldn't go to sleep without washing my face. And in the morning, no question - wash my face. But all my other soldiers, it's like they weren't even making that decision in the morning because they didn't even know." Dave did it in an actual war zone. What's your excuse?
It's overwhelming to think about going from zero to sixty (or ten) so quickly. Most guys can't realistically manage a 10-step skincare routine every single day. (Even Dave, a man whose duty was to follow orders to a T, admits that his regular routine is only six or seven steps and takes him about ten minutes.)"It's a lifestyle," adds Charlotte. "It's all about consistency and you have to believe in it. Just like working out. You're going to put in the time because with time you will see the results."
Here's what you need to know about all ten steps:Oil Cleanser : The first step in the traditional "double cleanse," which is at the core of Korean skincare. You start with an oil-based cleanser, which gently removes built up oil (sounds wrong, but is right), leftover products and debris from the surface of your skin without stripping the natural healthy oils from your face. This primes your skin for...
Water Cleanser : Or, what Americans tend to think of when we hear the word "cleanser." These usually foaming liquids and bars remove remaining impurities left behind by the oil like sweat and dirt. Double cleanse complete.
Exfoliating : Things like scrubs, peels and pads all fall into this category and help remove dead skin cells and buildup which helps prime your face and leads to a brighter complexion. When it comes to exfoliating, start slow and only do it sparingly. You're trying to improve your skin, not strip a ton of layers off. (This should be done about 1-2 times per week at most.)
Toning : To get scientific: after all the cleansing and exfoliating, your skin's pH is out of whack and needs to be returned to its natural acidic state. Toning helps restore this balance and starts to bring moisture back into the skin. Think of it as priming the base for all the good stuff you're about to put on it.
Essence. No, this is not where you remember your spirit. Essence is a product unique to the Korean skincare regime that's sort of a middle ground between toner and serum. It's formulated with fermented ingredients and meant to aid in cellular rejuvenation and turnover (also an important part of skin health).
Treatment : In the Korean skincare world, a treatment is anything focused on a specific problem, usually referred to as a serum. They contain highly concentrated ingredients meant to target a concern like dullness, wrinkles, and acne.
Sheet Masks : If you have an instagram account, you probably know what a sheet mask is (they're tailor-made for selfies). They're literally sheets of paper (or linen or other oval-shaped slabs) that are soaked in a goo (scientific term) or serum. Lay one on your face for 20 minutes while all the nutrients and ingredients absorb into your skin. Another step not required every single day.
Eye Cream: You might consider specific products for your eyes a treatment step, but these are eye gels, creams, or even oils that are formulated to target the thin, sensitive skin around the eyes and help with darkness, puffiness and fine lines. Think of it as a full night's sleep in a jar.
Moisturizer: As you're nearing the finish line, you might be exhausted (and your face very wet), but it's important to not forget the moisturizer. Since you've layered all these other products onto your skin, moisturizer serves as a sort of cocoon to ensure everything soaks into your skin and doesn't evaporate into the air. (Yes, that can happen.) Think of it as deck stain...but for your face.
SPF : This is arguably the most important step of the whole ten-step lineup. If your moisturizer doesn't have an SPF built into it, you need to add a separate one. Sun damage is a very real thing and slathering sunscreen on every single day—even if you don't think you need it—is never a bad idea.
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