Everyone around me seems to be having a baby or rescuing a dog. While my achievements this year may pale in comparison to kids and puppies, I hope my friends are equally proud of my growth this year, which exists in the form of the beard on my face.

I'm certainly not the only one—quarantine scruff has been the big grooming trend of 2020. But growing a beard is a journey, and there's a big moment a few months in: what happens when you decide you actually like how it looks? How do you go from just a scruffy guy who has stopped shaving to the proud owner of a what you could properly call an established beard?

 If you ask us, that happens when you start really caring for it: keeping it a consistent length, clean and well-moisturized. If you're ready, here's a six-step plan to doing just that. 

1. Use beard oil. 

If you haven’t already converted to beard oil, then get with the program: It not only works on the whiskers themselves, but it also nourishes the skin beneath the facial hair, hydrating and protecting your skin. Look for oils like jojoba, argan, or moringa for your whiskers. (Avoid coconut oil—it can clog your pores.) Some oils are unscented, which might be your style, but for a real hit of old-school style, we like Proraso. It smells like the Milanese barbershop of your dreams. 

Proraso scented beard oil$16

Amazon

2. Exfoliate the skin underneath. 

Beard dandruff is real and it’s…not exactly magnificent. So, you’ve got to exfoliate the skin with a scrub or chemical exfoliant. 

Exfoliate your skin two to three times weekly in order to remove dead skin cells and keep stronger, healthier skin at the surface. It makes it easier for the healthy cells to absorb proper nourishment from the beard oil or moisturizer, and ensures that your whiskers don’t harbor any scales—especially during the cold, dry months.

Horace face scrub$14

Mr. Porter

The Ordinary lactic acid 5% peeling serum$13

Amazon

3. Give it some definition. 

Your beard needs a border, no matter how long or short it is. Nobody ordered a neckbeard, and those strays on your cheek aren’t adding any aesthetic value. 

The cheek tends to be self-explanatory—just shave off any strays. The neckline is more complicated, but here's one simple rule for trimming it: Place your pointer and middle finger directly above your Adam’s apple. Imagine a dot here, right above where the fingers sit (it’s roughly an inch and a half above the apple, no?). Then, tilt your chin up, and pull the neck taut. Trim everything below this point, and below the imaginary “U” shape the connects the dot to the backs of your ears. Trim this area every couple days for a short beard, or once a week for anything medium and long.

You’ll need a reliable beard trimmer for the task. If you want to shave the neck hairs down even more (without just using a razor), then pick up an electric shaver for easy cleanups.

Panasonic cordless beard trimmer$132

Amazon

Andis cordless foil shaver$55

Amazon

4. Trim it regularly. 

Once you've got your beard to its permanent length, it’s easy to keep it there. Measure it with a ruler, then pick a guard just a little shorter than that. (You're a beard scientist!) Using your beard trimmer, glide over everything with the correct guard while also keeping the neck and cheeks clean. 

If you choose a high-contrast style (like a fuller mustache and lighter beard), then it’s every bit as easy—just use a longer guard on the mustache. 

5. Keep it clean. 

I’m a fan of using regular face cleansers on my beard, as opposed to special beard washes, because I think of this regimen foremost as a wash for the skin, not the hair. So, while it may parch the hair a bit, it really just doubly emphasizes the need for a beard oil. (But you’ve already got that covered, right?) Specifically, I’m a big fan of salicylic acid cleansers for beards, since they also work aggressively to unclog pores and prevent breakouts underneath.

CeraVe salicylic acid cleanser$11

Target

6. Fight frizz with a soothing balm. 

Even short beards have bad hair days, frizzing out every which way. However, it’s not always right to snip away the stray hairs, especially if you have a naturally patchy beard and need all the fullness you can get. And while beard oil can often tame hairs into place, it does little to lock them in. That’s where beard balms come in. Not only do they nourish the hairs with ingredients like shea butter and soothing oils, but balms also help coax the hairs to go where you want them. 

Copenhagen Grooming beard balm$29

Copenhagen Grooming

And if you're not quite here yet, read on:Read MoreHow to Grow a Beard for the First Time

Here's seven-step plan to reach your fullest beard potential.

By Adam Hurly



Adam Hurly has been covering men's grooming since 2013 (and for GQ since 2016). He is also a travel writer. In Fall 2024, Adam is launching Blue Print by Adam Hurly, a men's grooming platform. Adam resides in Lisbon (previously Berlin, NYC, and San Francisco). He is a Sioux Falls, SD, native... Read moreWriterInstagramRelated Stories for GQBathroom and ShowerBeardsFacial Hair